Sewing-machine.



W. P. GAMMONS, JR. 7

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION nun AUG. 24, 1911.

1,063,,2531 v Patented June 3, 1913.

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W. P. GAMMONS, JR. SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG. 24, 1911.

1,063,253.. Patented June 3, 1913.

2 SHEE-TSSHEET 2. F l i E:

QT onto.

SEWING-MACHINE.

To all whom it may concern Be itknown that I, WVELooME I GAM- MONS, Jr., a citizen of the United States, residing at New York, in the countyof New York and .State of New York, have invented certain new and usefulImprovements in Sewing-Machines; and I do hereby declare the followingto be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such aswill enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make anduse the same, reference being had tov the accompanying drawlugs, and tofigures of reference marked thereon, which form a part of thisspecification.

This invention relates to a sewing machine which is designed to providea ma chine which punctures the material which is to be sewed at a placewhere the needle will enter the material and from the opp0 site side tothe side from which the needle enters, the puncturing being done by anawl which does not lnterfere in anyway wlth the sewing operation and isso adjusted that it punctures the material before the needle penetratesthe material and directly after the material has been fed for the nextstitch. The sewing machine is further designed to be used on material ofa soft nature, and material of a somewhat less pliable nature, forinstance as in sewing hats where it is used through the felt and throughthe leather sweat band. The awl is constructed to enter through thesweat band first whereby when the hat rests on the feeding means itprovides aresilient backing, that is, a backing that yields slightlyagainst the entrance of the awl, and any bur or ridge around the hole iscaused to projecton the side toward the material of the hat so that itis not evident when the hat is finished. The needle enters from the softside, that is, through the hat-body or the material of'the hat, andhaving a hole punched for it in the lea her band of the hat, it does notpush out the material of the leather, and the sewing has a good finishedappearance on the inside and the sweat band is not marred by the row ofminute raised particles around the holes of' the stitches.

The invention is designed to provide a machine to perform this which isprovided with an awl that can be swung out of line with the needle orquickly placed in line with the needle, as it is desired to be usedSpecification of Letters Patent. Application filed August 24, 1911.

Patented June 3, 1%13. Serial No. 645,862.

or not. The machine further provides a ,presser-roller mounted on aswinging arm, said ,presser-roller being in turn provided with animproved guide for holding a cord when a cord is used in connection withthe juncture of the leather band and the hatbody, andwhen such cord isnot used, said guide acts to hold the material down on the feeding meansto insure its being fed properly and steadily. I

The invention is illustrated in theaccompanying drawings, in which-Figure 1,is a side view of the machine ready to sew, but beingillustrated without -material to be sewed therein. similar view showingthe Presser-arm with its roller raised and material inserted in Fig. 2is a 1 Fig. 1. Fig. 4 is a view taken from the front of the machine withthe feeding-wheel removed and the front plate partly broken away to showthe mechanism to better advantage. Figs. 5, 6 and 7 are side views ofthe detail for holding the awl. Fig. 8 is a view of the presser-rollerwith an improved form of cord guide secured thereto and also showing aportion of the feeding-wheel with the hat-body and the leather in placeto be sewed. Fig. 9 is a topview of Fig. 8.

In the drawings I have illustrated a general type of machine, saidmachine being illustrated -as a hat sewing machine in which the hatleather is stitched to the hat-body on the inside of the bottom of thecrown. The machine casing 10 is provided with a driving pulley 11 whichis adapted to receive a belt and is mounted on theshaft 12 which is bar14, the needle-bar 14 carrying the nee-, I

dle 15 which is ada ted to'receive thread from a spool mounte on thespindle 16 on the top of the casing 10, the looper 17 acting to formthe'loop for the stitches as is usually done in thistype .of machine.The operating means for the looper 17 is not shown, since it is ndtapart of this invention.

The main shaft is provided with a worm 18 which is shown moreparticularly in Fig. 3, the worm 18 being provided with spaced teethwhich are without pitch for a part of their circumference, and providedwith a pitch the remainder of the circumference so that the partialrotation of the shaft causes the worm 18 to feed the worm-gear 19. The

remainder of the rotation of the worm 18 looks the worm-gear 19 againstrotation.

This provides a step-by-step movement for the worm-gear 19 and the shaft20 on which it is mounted (see Fig. 1), thus transmitting a step-by-stepmovement to the small gear ments surrounding it.

server.

The presser-arm 29 1s pivoted at 30 and is provided with apresser-roller 31 rotatably arranged at its lower edge and adapted to beswung down in engagement with the inner side of the hat-bodyto force itagainst the feeding-wheel 24. This presser-roller or wheel therebyinsures the engagement of the edge of the feed-wheel 24 ,with the hat.The hat is preferably supported by a shield 32 which is cut away as at-33 (Fig. 3) to permit thepresser-wheel to press the hat close up againstthe feed -wheel. The resser-arm and its wheel are normally forcedagainst the hat by means of the bellcrank 34 and the s ring 35. Thefeedwheel is provided with a back chamfered edge 36 which provides apointed periphery over which the fold 37 of the hat is formed, and thesweat band or leather 38 of the hat is squeezed by the resser-roller 31so that they are in position to have the needle pass through the fold 37and through the leather near its top edge to sew the parts together. Ifthe needle is'run throu h without any previous perforation,theeather,.'at the point where the needle comesthrough, is forced towardthe inside of the hat, that is, the surface is pushed up and provides asmall projection which, due 1 to the light color on the inside of theleather, is quickly noticeable, especially when there is a row of them,and they being close together, are well defined.

My invention provides. a means for perforating the leather of the hatfirst, the less pliable leather being forced by an awl against thesoftmateriallof the hat whereby a cushion is provided and the awl isforced through the leather into the fold of the hat if necessary,forcing the leather toward the hat where it can not be seen, and whenthe needle is forced through the perforation after the awl is withdrawn,the hole in the leather is clean and unmarred to the ob- The awl 39 ismounted on a swinging lever 40, which lever swings on the pivot 41 onthe rod 42, which rod is reciprocated by means of the yoke 43 and theeccentric 44 so that the awl-rod 42 is caused to reciprocate to forcethe awl into and out of the material between the pressenroller or wheel31 and the feeding-wheel 24. A sleeve 45 slides on'the rod 42 and alsoover the lever 40, and when slid forward to the position shown in Figs.1 and 5, the lever 40 and the rod 42 are held in .alinementand the awlis in position for operation. A pin 46 on the rod 42 and a slot- 47 inthe sleeve 45 act to limit the movement of the sleeve. The sleeve ispreferably provided with knurled collars 48 to facilitate its movement.

\Vhen the sleeve is slid back to the position shown in Fig. 6, the end49 of the lever 40, which is within a slot in the end ofthe rod 42, isreleased and the lever 40 can be swung to the position shown in Figs. 2and 7, that is, out of the way to facilitate the insertion and removalof material to be sewed. The awl 39 is preferably made L- shaped orright-angled and is held by the screw,50 onto a plate 51 which isslotted as at 52, and working on the screw 53, provides an adjustmentfor the awl to regulate its penetration.

The mechanism is timed so that the feeding of the material takes placefirst, then It is sometimes desirable to feed a cord 54 and embrace itin the loop of the stitch, the cord being shown in Figs. 8 and 9 asresting in the juncture of the hat-brim and the sweat band or leather.To properly feed this cord, and also to act as a cord or pressing meansfor guiding the leather to insure the proper elevation of its" top edge,I provide the foot 55 which is provided on one side with a lip 56 whichextends. over the leather and keeps it from riding up, and is providedon its other side with an eye 57 through which the cord 54 is fed, theeye 57 also having a provision on its under surface for preventing theriding up of the hatband or the cord. The foot is provided with a slot58 which provides a passageway for the needle 15.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim is 1. A sewing machinecomprising a support for the material to be sewed, a reciprocatingneedle and its operating mechanism, an awl-rod, a lever swinging at theend of the awl-rod, a pin in the awl-rod; a sleeve sliding on theawl-I'od and having aslot to receive the pin, the sleeve being adaptedto inclose both the rod and the lever to hold the 'lever'in itsoperative position, and an awl secured to the lever.

2. A sewing machine comprising a sup port for the material to be sewed,a reciproeating needle and its operating mechanism,

an a l-rod, a lever swinging at the end of the awl-rod, a pin in theaWl-rod, a sleevesliding on the awl-rod and having a slot to receive thepin, the sleeve being adapted to inclose both the rod and the lever tohold I have hereunto, set my thevlever in its operative-position, aplate adjustably secured on the lever, and an L- shaped awl adjustablysecured to the plate,

WELCOME P. GAMMON S, JR.

Witnesses:

WM. H. CAMPIELD, M. A. JOHNSON.

